Unforgettable Birthday Experiences in Italy’s Montecatini

Welcome to the Blog today, Friends.

What makes a great Birthday? It has to include the people who are most important in your life, some memorable moments, and a feeling of joy that infuses your being as you make your way through an important milestone.

Our trip to Italy included my Birthday, which our daughter planned and executed beautifully. She chose a town in Italy called Montecatini Terme, a bit south of Lucca and a bit north of Florence. It’s one of the great spa towns of Europe—known for its mineral springs, elegant architecture, and old-world charm.

We were there in the off-season, so we weren’t fighting any crowds. The town was quiet and peaceful, its wide boulevards lined with Art Nouveau buildings that seemed to glow softly in the afternoon light. Many of the grand hotels and spa houses were adorned with intricate carvings and sculptural details—cherubs dancing across stone facades, delicate pillars topped with floral motifs, and frescoes that graced both ceilings and walls. Everywhere you looked, there was a sense of grace and history.

Montecatini is the kind of place that invites you to slow down and simply enjoy the beauty around you. It’s a lovely town to walk in—tree-lined avenues leading to charming piazzas where locals gather for coffee, and the gentle sound of fountains mingling with the hum of conversation. There’s a serenity to the place, as though time has learned to move a little more gently here.

We were booked into a central hotel and spent our first day taking the funicular to a little town above Montecatini Terme called Montecatini Alto. The funicular itself is a charming relic of another era—two small red cars that have been faithfully climbing the hillside since the late 1800s. They glide up and down on a single track, meeting and passing at the midpoint, just as they have for well over a century.

It was the perfect way to spend a morning—slowly climbing toward beauty, history, and a view that took our breath away.

As we began our ascent, the car creaked softly, its wooden benches polished smooth by generations of travelers. The town below grew smaller and smaller until it looked like a miniature painting—terracotta rooftops, olive groves, and the soft green of cypress trees blending into the Tuscan hills. The air was fresh and lightly scented with pine and lavender, and the view widened with every turn of the wheel.At the top, Montecatini Alto greeted us like a postcard from another time. Stone walls wrapped around the village, narrow cobblestone streets wound past shuttered windows and flowering balconies, and the distant bells of the church marked the hour. From the piazza, we could see the valley spread out below, dotted with villas and vineyards—peaceful, timeless, and so very beautiful.It was the perfect way to spend a morning—slowly climbing toward beauty, history, and a view that took our breath away.

After wandering a bit through the narrow, winding streets, we made our way toward the center of the little town for lunch at Café Giusti, a spot recommended by Chef Giuseppe. It turned out to be the most popular restaurant in Montecatini Alto—and for good reason. The terrace was filled with the gentle hum of conversation and the clink of glasses, every table shaded by cheerful white umbrellas that fluttered softly in the breeze.

We were fortunate to find a table outside, perfectly positioned to take in the view and the lively rhythm of the piazza. The air was warm but comfortable, carrying the mingled scents of herbs, olive oil, and freshly baked bread.

We began with a shared appetizer—shrimp wrapped in spun vermicelli noodles, delicately crisp and golden, served with a light sauce that complemented every bite. It was one of those simple dishes that linger in your memory long after the meal is done.

Something that truly caught my attention, and made a lasting impression, was how Italians elevate the art of presentation. Every dish arrived like a small masterpiece—carefully arranged, beautifully balanced, and served on plates that enhanced the colors of the food itself.

The shrimp was presented on a plate that highlighted the warm, golden tones of the crisp noodles. Nearby, the white fish rested on a sea-green plate over a bed of creamy white sauce, with greens artfully scattered like brushstrokes across a canvas. The tuna, positioned at the center, was served on a white plate adorned with delicate patterns of green and gold, creating a design that looked almost painted by hand. And the risotto—a vision in orange—arrived in a double bowl, the inner dish black to draw out the rich hue of the orange-infused sauce surrounding it.

Each plate was not just food—it was art.

Even the bread was served with charm, tucked neatly into a small wooden crate lined with linen. It was such a simple thing, yet so utterly delightful.

After lunch, we wandered leisurely through the town, exploring the winding lanes and quiet corners that seemed to appear around every turn. The colors of Montecatini Alto were breathtaking—soft golds and terracottas warmed by the afternoon sun, punctuated by splashes of green from ivy-covered walls and bright flowers spilling over balcony railings. Every path seemed to lead to another beautiful vista, each one more enchanting than the last.

We paused often to take in the stunning views that stretched far across the Tuscan countryside—rolling hills, dotted with olive trees and vineyards, fading into a gentle blue haze in the distance. It was the kind of beauty that fills you up quietly, moment by moment.

As the day began to soften toward evening, we made our way back down to Montecatini Terme aboard the funicular, the same little red car that had carried us up that morning. The descent was peaceful, the lights of the town below beginning to twinkle as the sun slipped behind the hills.

Back at the hotel, we enjoyed a short rest—just enough time to refresh and reflect on the day—before heading out once again to find a cozy spot for dinner.

We weren’t especially hungry after our afternoon adventures, so we settled on a little pizzeria near the center of town—without realizing that we were in for a delightful surprise. As we found our seats, the evening’s entertainment began: a charming performer called “Sergio by Night.”

Sergio had an easy smile and a voice full of warmth. He sang a lively mix of Italian favorites sprinkled with a few familiar American tunes, encouraging guests to join in. The atmosphere was lighthearted and joyful—exactly the kind of serendipitous evening that makes travel so memorable.

Our simple meal was perfect: pizza fresh from the oven and a steaming dish of mussels, both full of the rich flavors that seem to come effortlessly in Italy. As always, the table was set with bottled water and a carafe of wine, because in Italy, every meal—no matter how casual—is a celebration of life and good company. We lingered there, laughing, listening to music, and simply soaking in the happiness of the evening.

The next day was my Birthday, and it began perfectly with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel—fresh pastries, strong coffee, and the anticipation of the day ahead. Our morning destination was the Art Nouveau Spa, one of Montecatini’s crown jewels and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Even before stepping inside, you can sense its history. The grand entrance, framed by sweeping arches and sculpted columns, gives way to an interior that is truly breathtaking. The Terme Tettuccio Spa is a masterpiece of the early 20th century, filled with mosaics, marble fountains, and frescoes that glow softly in the morning light. “Drop-dead gorgeous” hardly begins to describe it—it’s a feast for the eyes and a place that feels suspended in time.

The pictures above show the entrance to the Spa, the grand interior hall, the beautiful pool with its central fountain, one of the decorative fountains representing a particular type of mineral water, and the gallery of taps where visitors can choose the water they wish to drink.

The experience is referred to as “taking the waters,” a centuries-old ritual believed to promote healing and well-being. Each station features two taps—one hot and one cold—and the difference is striking. The hot water steams as it pours, while the cold runs crisp and refreshing.

What makes this place so remarkable is the thoughtful symbolism woven into its design. Along the walls, frescoes depict the stages of life, from maternity to old age. The waters drawn from each tap were once thought to benefit the stage of life represented in the painting above it. It’s both beautiful and fascinating—a marriage of art, architecture, and ancient belief.

We were each given a small cup to sample the waters, just as countless visitors have done over the years. Around us, many locals arrived with their own cups and containers, filling them carefully from their favorite taps. There was something quietly reverent about the scene, as if everyone was participating in a ritual older than memory.

After spending several unhurried hours exploring the spa, we stopped for coffee in the elegant bar on the property—a perfect way to end the morning. The air was warm and fragrant with espresso, the marble columns gleaming in the soft light filtering through the arches. It was one of those moments that felt both timeless and deeply personal.

Next stop—lunch.

We chose the restaurant pictured above and enjoyed a truly wonderful meal, the kind that lingers in your memory long after the last bite. As is customary in Italy, the table was soon set with wine, water, and a generous basket of bread, still warm and crusty from the oven.Our choices were delicious—tender veal, borage ravioli topped with a delicate walnut sauce instead of parmesan, and a beautifully presented pumpkin risotto with a light crème sauce that was as lovely to look at as it was to taste. Each dish was thoughtfully prepared and beautifully balanced, the kind of meal that feels like a quiet celebration all on its own.Then came a delightful surprise. The staff appeared with a tiramisu, complete with a birthday candle, wide smiles, and cheerful wishes for a wonderful day. It was such a sweet, heartfelt gesture and made the meal—and the moment—truly unforgettable.

After lunch, we wandered back toward the center of town and couldn’t resist taking a ride on the ferris wheel. It was such a fun surprise and offered the most wonderful views of Montecatini without the effort of climbing a bell or clock tower! As the wheel turned slowly, we could see the whole town spread out below—terracotta rooftops, tree-lined streets, and distant hills shimmering in the afternoon light. Each revolution revealed another breathtaking angle, and we couldn’t help but smile at the simple joy of it all.

When our ride came to an end, we strolled back to the hotel for a little rest—a peaceful afternoon nap and time to freshen up before the evening ahead.

The evening began with Birthday greetings and aperitivi in the hotel bar and a short stroll to La Pecora Nera (the Black Sheep) restaurant, where we were greeted with a complimentary welcome glass of Rosé and a petite serving of pea soup with crème fraîche and star anise. Already—wow.

The glow of candlelight danced against stone walls, and laughter floated through the air as guests lingered over their own evening beginnings. There was that unmistakable hum that comes when everyone in a room is happy to be exactly where they are. Our table was tucked near the window, the soft murmur of conversation blending with the faint notes of Italian jazz. It felt intimate and welcoming, like being invited into someone’s home rather than dining out.

Menus arrived, but we weren’t in any hurry. Instead, we enjoyed the moment—the clinking of glasses, the comforting warmth of the room, and the way each detail, from the linen napkins to the linen covered tables, spoke of quiet elegance. The anticipation built naturally, the way it always does when an evening promises something special.

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Appetizers came next, and this amazing plate in shades of sea blue with a softly clouded glass dome was placed before me. As the dome was gently lifted, wisps of fragrant smoke drifted into the air like a passing mist, revealing the most exquisite presentation—smoked scallops nestled on a bed of pumpkin cream, finished with delicate touches of coconut cream and slivered almonds. It was almost too beautiful to disturb, a small work of art that captured both the sea and the season in a single plate. The colors, the aroma, the quiet elegance of the reveal—each element was a sensory delight.

The meal continued with a series of exquisite presentations—each more beautiful than the last. Tender Fassona beef arrived first, crowned with a porcini mushroom cap that added depth and earthiness to every bite. Next came a delicate stuffed quail resting on a bed of vibrant kale, the colors as lovely as the flavors. Then, in a moment of quiet theatre, sea bass was filleted at the table and served with an array of seasonal vegetables, all draped in a light, fragrant sauce that perfectly complemented the fish.

Each course was paired with a rich Tuscan red wine, its warmth deepening as the evening lingered on. Conversation flowed easily, and there was that wonderful sense of contentment that only comes with good food, good wine, and dear company.

For dessert, a velvety crème brûlée was prepared at the table—the satisfying crack of the caramelized sugar giving way to the silkiest custard beneath. It was the perfect finale to a truly memorable birthday celebration, the kind of evening that lingers long after the last spoonful is gone.

It was a perfectly wonderful couple of days for a perfectly wonderful birthday celebration.

Thanks so much for joining me for this special weekend.  I’m so happy you could share this with me. Moments like these remind us of the love of family and the joy of spending time together to pause, savor and to celebrate the beauty of life wherever we find it. Until next time — ciao!